Heating is an interesting challenge. If one wishes to prove one's
dedication to the use of alternatives to fossil fuels, one could live
in the house without employing a "furnace". BUT, in the winter the
temperature would fluctuate rather severely - being colder at night than
is desirable (probably around 55 degrees Fahrenheit). While not unlivable,
it is not pleasant. To minimize this fluctuation, as much dense material
(stone, cement, brick) as is practical has been incorporated into the
structure of the house - interior brick/cement walls, and ceramic/cement
floors, AND a large central cement and brick housing (about 4 x 10 x 15 ft
inside, and another 8 ft, or so, outside)
for the chimneys. There are three - caste iron stove, fireplace, furnace.
You can see it emerge from the roof as a "chimney". This central
pillar also collects the sun's energy when light passes through the
window wall in the winter. Energy stored in the structure of the house is
released slowly through the night. This "storage" also helps to ameliorate the
temperatures on very hot summer days. Have you ever noted the temperature
difference in your cellar - even on a 95 degree day? Conserving heat is
important. The insulation in 6 inch walls and in ceilings is maximized.
Tyvec outside the insulation keeps the wind at bay. A plastic moisture
barrier inside the insulation helps it to breathe and keep from packing
with condensation.
We tried using only a caste iron stove for one winter. It worked, but
a great deal of physical effort is involved in maintaining the proper ash bed
in such a stove. Ask anyone who has employed one. It is warm and appealing,
and fun for a time, but at 6:00 a.m. shaking down the ash bed looses its novelty
rather quickly. In a year we seem to use about $400 to heat and about $400
to heat hot water - assuming approximately $1/gallon for oil. Our environmental
halos are tarnished, however, since we use electricity to air condition when
the heat and humidity of New Jersey's summers becomes sufficiently miserable.
When time permits, a side view of the structure will be added to this page.
The control of air flow in a solar house is critical to its success. This can be
best understood only with diagrams. Unlike conventional heating, warm air is
released near the floor and captured near the ceiling (this takes advantage of
the inevitable rising of hot air). It is then pushed down through the furnace
to be heated IF needed, and then to be recirculated. Programmable thermostats
have proven their worth, as have multiple thermostats controlling when
the clerestory air is collected and when it is not.
You are welcome to ask questions about living in a passive solar house.
Not too many environmental science professors have had the opportunity,
and it warrants telling. We designed the house (from scratch! - blank paper).
Mr. Keating had taken courses in solar energy, I
had attended the Cornell Univ. College of Architecture (long enough to learn
only the rudiments of the profession). Prof. Makofski, of Ramapo State
College looked over the plans to assure that critical structural components
were included. A licensed architect, Herbert Vollman, from Clinton, N.J.
checked them thoroughly to assure structural integrity.